Jordan: In the footsteps of Lawrence of Arabia

That first night, I slept in Aqaba, a coastal city noted for its wonderful diving. Something that many people don't know is that Jordan also has an immense treasure on its shores. Jordan's Red Sea is full of life, corals, colorful fish, and many other species that make it one of the best diving destinations in the world.

I am a diving fanatic, but this time I had to give it up because there was no time for it. After dinner, it was time to rest because the next morning, I started my great adventure in Jordan in the desert.

For those unfamiliar with the destination, one of Jordan's great treasures is the Wadi Rum Desert, which means "Valley of the Moon" and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a desert valley located at an altitude of 1,600 meters, in a mountainous region formed by granite and sandstone in the south of Jordan, and has an area of 720 km².

I visited Wadi Rum in a 4×4 SUV with our Bedouin guide. During the route, you see different formations, take short hiking trails through canyons, dunes, mountains, wells, and hieroglyphic paintings.

It was in the desert dunes where Lawrence of Arabia, a British military officer and archaeologist, fought in the First World War against the Turks and managed to convince all the Arab people that it was better to fight united than individually.

Lawrence of Arabia was the only Englishman and foreigner who managed to become part of the nomadic people, lived as a Bedouin, and acted as an intermediary in the Arab revolution.

Throughout the excursion, I made several stops for lunch, where I tasted a rich Bedouin lunch composed of vegetables, chicken, and hummus accompanied by their famous tea. I had the opportunity to chat with the Bedouins and ask them about their customs, their family, and their way of seeing life. For me, this is one of the most important things when you travel, since it opens your mind and is the best way to understand the country and its culture.

The Bedouin people are synonymous with hospitality. The traditional Bedouins are dedicated to livestock, fetching water, and trading. Today, a large portion of them make a living from tourism, and many feel it is their mission to show the wonders of their country to new generations of visitors.

Sleeping under the stars

One of my favorite moments, without a doubt, was the sunset in the desert. They prepared dinner while I watched the sun set over the golden dunes. I don't know if I was on Mars or in the desert...but it was amazing! After sunset, we were welcomed into the central tent of the camp with a cup of tea. It is considered impolite to refuse this drink, so it is recommended you drink it or at least wet your lips.

They had prepared mansaf for dinner, which is a traditional Bedouin dish of lamb, rice, and pine nuts mixed with yogurt, accompanied by tea and Moroccan-like desserts with honey... It was an exquisite dinner!

After dinner and some Bedouin music around the campfire that enlivened the night, I went to gaze up at the stars. The silence, the non-existent light pollution, and the immensity of the desert make this space one of the best spots to lie down and observe the night sky. It was magical! No words can truly describe the peace and tranquility that I felt at that moment.

The cold and fatigue were enough to put me to sleep in the jaima-type tent that was in the camp because the next day was going to be more intense.

The next day, it was our turn to discover Petra, an important archaeological site in Jordan, and the capital of the ancient Nabataean kingdom. Its name means stone, and it is perfectly suitable, since it is a city excavated and carved in stone. Petra served several functions. On one hand, it was the place where the Nabataeans were buried in tombs carved out of the rocks. On the other hand, it was a defensive enclave where the Nabataeans hid to defend themselves from attacks by other people.

So, after a good early start, we arrived at Petra, the great jewel of Jordan, a unique place that hardly disappoints, and one of the 7 wonders of the world that I had yet to see. I had very high expectations before visiting this place, but Petra surprised me from the first moment. The early start was worth it. At 6 am, we were the first to enter, and we were alone in that fascinating place. 
 

Petra is far more than just the iconic façade of the Treasury; it's a royal tomb carved into the rock in the 1st century BC, measuring 43 meters wide and 30 meters high. The Siq, a narrow gorge that leads through towering rock walls to the Treasury, is a spectacular prelude to what lies ahead.

Beyond the Treasury, Petra is filled with rock-carved wonders like the Royal Tombs and the Monastery, monuments that rival the famed jewel of the site. Reaching the Monastery isn’t easy; the hike to the top is long and demanding, but worth the effort.

Add to that countless hidden corners, stone-carved paths, and breathtaking viewpoints, and you understand why Petra is truly one of a kind. I explored every corner of this ancient city, and it was a magical day I’ll never forget.

A sea of salt

I spent my last day enjoying the Dead Sea, a vast salt lake located 400 meters below sea level. One of the reasons it’s so salty is that it sits in an endorheic basin, meaning it has no outlets. The minerals carried into it remain there permanently, making its waters exceptionally rich.

The Dead Sea has a density of 1.24 kg per liter, which allows the human body to float effortlessly, a strange and almost surreal sensation. It’s not exactly the most comfortable swim, since you can’t submerge your head, but it was the perfect way to unwind and take in the stillness of the place on my final day before heading home.

In short, Jordan is a safe country, full of contrasts and smiles, where the people make you feel at home and where you will always want to come back.

As Lawrence of Arabia said: "There are two kinds of people: those who sleep and dream by night and those who dream awake and dream by day... those are dangerous, for they will not give way until they see their dreams come true."